The capital's train station seemed to cut the city off from the rest of the world. The commuter train from Johannesburg shook us for over two hours, much, much longer than we could have imagined. By that time, we had run out of patience and doubted several times if we were even heading in the right direction. Had we boarded the right train?!
It turned out we were right after all! The station looked old and worn from the inside. It felt as if Johannesburg ended there and a new world began — the world of the city of Pretoria.
We stepped out onto the station square and looked around... Nothing! True, we were exhausted from the trip and could barely enjoy it. But it was clear: there was plenty to enjoy in this city. The most interesting thing: everything that seemed remarkable was to the right of the station exit. And to the left — well, just... just the city.
We headed to the bus station to ask about tickets to Victoria Falls. There were tickets. Inexpensive ones. But only for tomorrow. We thought about it and decided: we could take them. We would definitely make it back by the 14th for Vitya's departure!
— Well, shall we buy them and go look for a hotel?! — I suggested.
— Let's do it the other way around! First, let's find a place to sleep, and then — get the tickets!
— What's the difference?
— What if we don't find a hotel?
— We'll find one. I just don't know how much it will cost. Fine, let's do it your way! Just ask until what time the ticket office is open?
— Until 8:30! — Vitya reported after checking.
We looked at our watches: it was past 3 PM.
— Okay, let's go. Let's just ask at the station information desk first, let them advise us on a hotel! — I suggested.
That's what we did. They recommended one very close by, about two hundred meters from the station building — to the right and around the corner.
— And what about the prices? — we asked the consultant.
— Reasonable, — he replied.
Everything was clear! Both of us took this "reasonable" with skepticism and started wandering around, looking for another hotel.
— Black people, as soon as they see white people, think they have pockets full of money, so they can offer them something more expensive! — I shared my opinion, which had formed over the last few months.
We searched. But either the place didn't suit us, or the price. We walked for about thirty or forty minutes. In the end, we decided to go and check out the place the black consultant had suggested.
It turned out: HE WAS A GOOD MAN! And the hotel was lovely! They were having a discount month and we arrived two days before it ended, which meant we qualified for the discounts in every way! We rented a charming room cheaply with comfortable beds, a shower, and a wonderful view from the window!
I was on cloud nine! Looking out the window, we immediately decided where we could go. To the right in the distance, the University of South Africa and the TV tower stood proudly. And to the left — about twice as far — the old government building, the Union Buildings. Huge, beautiful! On a hill. And even further left and closer to us — the city center. There was a beautiful high-rise. And I love high-rises!
Euphoria swept over me.
— Hooray!!!! — I shouted.
Vitya was also beaming with happiness.
We settled in. A refreshing shower, hot coffee with a sweet roll. A celebration of life and joy! And Pretoria immediately became ten times dearer!
After the shower, I started jumping on the bed. From indescribable delight!
At six, traveling light, we went for the tickets, taking only the money for them and Vitya's small camera, which fit easily in his shorts pocket.
AND THERE WERE NO TICKETS TO VICTORIA FALLS! THEY WERE SOLD OUT!
— Oh well, we'll go to Port Elizabeth tomorrow! — Vitya wasn't upset at all.
But I was disappointed.
— But we got so close to Victoria! Maybe I'll never have another chance to visit that waterfall!
— Well, what can you do?! Yeah, it's fine! We'll go to the Indian Ocean, and then, on the bright side, while I'm here, we'll have time to climb Table Mountain!
— Maybe we should still try for the waterfall? Let's get tickets for the day after tomorrow! And then straight to Cape Town, back?!
— No, I don't want to risk it! God forbid I miss my flight!
Tickets to Port Elizabeth for the next day were still on sale. At 15:30. And we bought them. After that, completely relaxed, we went for a walk.
It was getting dark. The time was approaching seven. We headed towards the main (most likely) university of the country. And the TV tower.
Actually, we were just walking, without setting a specific goal to reach the university. But, as it turned out, nothing prevented us from doing so. In Pretoria, so close to Johannesburg and also with an absolute majority of the black population (in two days we saw about five white people, and upon returning to Cape Town it seemed to us that almost the majority of people were white), it turned out to be quiet and calm. Especially on the roads we took. The mood was wonderful. The walk brought joy. Especially considering that we were fresh, after a shower, full, and traveling light. And we also knew that a wonderful hotel awaited us upon our return!
It got dark. The streets were lit by lanterns. Warm. Nice!
It took us at least forty minutes, but no more than an hour to get to the university.
— Look how gigantic it is! — we shared with each other.
— A university is, after all, something special! And not only the architecture of the building, but the place where it is erected is always chosen with the utmost care! Quite often they build on a mountain or an elevation. Or somewhere near a forest. So that it can be seen from any side of the city. Never noticed?! — I asked.
— Well, of course! It's a university!
We returned late. We bought juice, fruit, and even a little wine.
We enjoyed ourselves, feeling like human beings.
We slept well. Comfortable, cozy, with a good mood.
In the morning, opening my eyes, I discovered that it was raining. Personally, I wasn't upset at all. On the contrary! I took out the camera and started filming the "city in rainy weather, from the window". After some time, the rain stopped. And we went to the park. We had to check out of the hotel at eleven, and we wanted to go for a walk without our bags before that. It was fresh in the park, empty for now. It felt like the air in the capital was good. And after the rain — fragrant too. Perhaps no worse than in Cape Town. Only without the smell of the ocean mixed in. By the way, the capital of South Africa is all green, with many parks and squares. Everything is neat, lots of flowers.
We concluded that black people in Pretoria are much more cultured than in other cities of the country. The smaller number of beggars compared to Cape Town and, especially, Joburg (where it was clear even from the bus window that there were more than enough of them) is very striking. And, most importantly, people in the capital are well-dressed, everything around is clean, tidy, it's clear: it's being taken care of.
— Wow! They are capable! So, it's not a lost cause — that black people are running the country! It turns out they can, if they want to, — I marveled.
After eleven, we went for a walk again. This time towards the Union Buildings. It took us an hour and a half or two. But along a very beautiful road, although, as it turned out later, not quite straight. We passed three wonderful, almost empty parks. We reached the place. We admired it very much, took photos again. And headed back. We liked everything very much and were impressed. On the way back, we reached the tallest building in the city, took a photo with it. And that was it.
And then off to the bus — and to Port Elizabeth!




